Sleeping on a Volcano and Greeting the Sun Above the Clouds: The Untamed Journey to the Top of the Atlantic

Written by: Ana Pereira

Tags: Islands, Outdoor Adventure, Nature Activities, Sustainable Tourism, World Travel, Europe, Portugal, Azores

In the North Atlantic, halfway between Europe and America, lies an archipelago of nine enchanting islands. Right at its center stands the highest of them all, tall and imposing, gazing over its sibling islands as if reminding them they’re not alone in the vast ocean. Some say these islands are the last remnants of ancient Atlantis. Legend or myth, one thing is certain: they’re breathtakingly beautiful and an unmissable destination for nature lovers and outdoor adventurers. Welcome to the magnificent Azores!

Discovered by the Portuguese navigators between 1427 and 1432, the islands are a blend of culture, tradition, superb cuisine, and unspoiled nature with dramatic volcanic landscapes that take your breath away. The highest of them all, Pico Island, rises 2,351 meters above sea level and is a must-visit for anyone passionate about hiking, mountaineering, or climbing. It’s the highest point in Portugal and one of the tallest peaks in the Atlantic Ocean. Ascending Pico is an epic adventure that demands solid preparation.

Curious to know more about this adventure? Here’s everything you need to know before setting out to conquer this magical mountain.

Physical and Mental Preparation

Ascending Portugal’s highest point is no ordinary hike, it’s a demanding physical challenge and a bit of a mental battle. Although it’s not technically a climb, the trail to the summit is steep and uneven, made up of loose rocks, solidified lava, and sections where you literally have to scramble on all fours. Good physical fitness is essential, but so is mental endurance. Fatigue builds up quickly and persistence becomes your greatest ally.

More than intense prior training with long mountain hikes, what truly helps is the ability to listen to your body, maintain a steady pace, and know when to stop. It’s also very important to prepare mentally to step outside your comfort zone, as you may face strong winds, cold temperatures, heavy moisture while passing through clouds, and a powerful feeling of solitude that only a mountain can impose. However, there’s also a reward no photo can fully capture.

 

What to Bring

Pico Mountain can easily fool you. It might not look very big on a clear day, but it hides unpredictable weather and temperatures that can drop sharply, especially up top. The key is to pack light, but smart. It’s crucial to prepare all your gear carefully, whether you plan to hike up and down the same day or spend the night on the mountain.

• Trekking or hiking backpack. If you’re overnighting, bring a trekking backpack with all the necessary gear. For a same-day hike, a smaller daypack with essentials will do.
• Technical layered clothing. A thermal base layer, a warm mid-layer (like fleece), and a good windbreaker or waterproof jacket. Even in summer, the summit can be very cold, especially if you’re staying overnight.
• Sturdy footwear. Hiking boots or shoes with good grip. The terrain is rocky, uneven, and slippery in parts.
• Gloves and a beanie. Small items but make a big difference when the cold wind hits the summit.
• Headlamp. Essential if you plan to watch the sunrise or if you get caught in fog.
• Water and energy snacks. The mountain is wild. There are no springs, bars, or facilities. You’ll need to carry all the water and food you need. Bring plenty of water, as altitude and physical effort increase your hydration needs.
• Trekking poles. They can really help ease the strain on your knees during the long, tough descent.
• Sunscreen and sunglasses. When the sun shines, it’s strong, and the altitude intensifies the radiation.

For those spending the night:

• Lightweight, wind-resistant trekking tent. Some people sleep out in the open, but that can be risky if wind and thick clouds roll in overnight. The weather is very unpredictable, so bring a compact, easy-to-set-up tent for rocky terrain. Only one night of camping on the mountain is allowed.
• Sleeping bag. Temperatures can drop close to freezing, even in summer. Bring a sleeping bag with good thermal insulation.
• Sleeping pad. The rocky ground doesn’t retain heat and quickly draws warmth away from your body.
• Power bank. Useful for headlamps or phones, especially if camping overnight.

In short, every gram counts, but don’t skimp on the essentials. On Pico, comfort and safety always outweigh backpack weight. Sleeping at the summit is a unique experience, but it demands absolute respect for the mountain and your own limits.

How to Get to the Island

Getting to this island requires some planning. Although it is possible to fly directly from Lisbon with TAP Portugal or Azores Airlines, flight schedules are not always daily and can vary significantly between summer and winter seasons. Outside of peak season, many travelers choose to fly to neighboring islands and then continue by boat.

Ferry connections are frequent and fast, especially from the city of Horta on Faial Island to the town of Madalena on Pico Island, making island hopping easy. However, these connections are subject to the moods of the Atlantic, especially in winter when wind and sea conditions can alter schedules or even cancel some trips.

If you’re planning your adventure, two things are essential: book flights well in advance and always double-check ferry schedules shortly before your trip. The archipelago’s beauty lies precisely in its remoteness, but that distance demands extra attention to logistics.

 

How to Get to the Base of the Mountain

To begin the ascent of Pico, it is essential to go to the Casa da Montanha, located at about 1,200 meters altitude at the foot of Pico Mountain. This support center is mandatory for all visitors planning to climb the mountain, serving as a registration and control point for ascents.

Casa da Montanha is in Candelária, in the parish of Madalena, and is accessible by road. To get there, you can rent a car or take a taxi. It is important to check the operating hours of Casa da Montanha, as they vary depending on the time of year.

At Casa da Montanha, visitors must complete the mandatory registration, provide an estimated return time, and if necessary, pay any applicable fees. Additionally, GPS tracking equipment is provided to monitor your location during the climb and to contact Casa da Montanha in case of emergency.

The ascent can be done independently or with a guide. Remember, safety is paramount. Outside of peak season, when the weather is more unstable, it is highly recommended to ascend with a certified guide.

Due to growing interest in this experience, it is also advisable to book your ascent in advance. More information is available on the Azores Government website. 

The Ascent

The ascent of Pico is an unforgettable adventure but it requires strict attention to safety rules and personal care to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. After mandatory registration at the Casa da Montanha, you must follow the safety guidelines provided there.

Safety Rules and Personal Care

·    Follow the marker posts. The trail is marked with wooden posts at regular intervals, indicating the safe path and helping visitors avoid getting lost, especially in low visibility conditions. The posts are numbered and painted with fluorescent paint to make them easier to spot from a distance during foggy periods.

·    Stay on the trail. It’s essential not to leave the marked path to protect nature and avoid accidents. If you need to be rescued off the trail, you will be responsible for covering the rescue costs.

·    Do not enter volcanic craters. Along the route, you will pass several craters, pits, and caves. No matter how tempting it is for exploration or photography, do not leave the trail or venture into places you might not be able to return from.

·     Pace yourself. Ascend at your own pace, take breaks, and avoid overexertion to prevent exhaustion.

·   Self-care. Never underestimate the importance of caring for yourself and your companions if hiking in a group. The mountain is unforgiving of negligence. Stay hydrated, protect yourself from sun and cold, and pay close attention to where you are walking, especially when visibility is poor.

Visibility

Fog is common and can be very dense, especially in the upper part of the mountain, significantly reducing visibility. In such cases, follow the marker posts and do not proceed alone. If conditions worsen drastically, it’s best to pause the ascent to avoid risks. When descending, wait until you can see the next post clearly before continuing. Following these guidelines is essential to make the most of your experience and return safely.

 

Scenery and Environment

During the ascent, the scenery is absolutely stunning, with views of the deep blue ocean and the other islands in the archipelago. The various shades of green and the vegetation are impressive! Wherever you look, you’ll see pure natural beauty. The entire landscape is breathtaking and deserves several stops for contemplation and photography. The time it takes to ascend depends on each person’s pace but you can expect a minimum of three hours to reach the crater, where the landscape looks almost lunar, like a scene straight out of Hollywood. However, the crater is not the summit. If you’re carrying camping gear for an overnight stay, find a suitable spot to pitch your tent and leave most of your equipment before heading to the summit.

 

Piquinho – The Summit

The mountain’s summit is called “Piquinho,” a “little” peak about 70 meters high inside the crater that you must go up if you want to reach the very top. Going up and down this peak requires great caution, as the ground is very slippery and steep. However, it’s definitely worth it, and the ascent wouldn’t be complete without it. The view from the summit is indescribable! You might catch a clear day and see all the surrounding islands, or you might find yourself above an endless white blanket of cotton-like clouds. Either way, seeing the world from above is an unparalleled experience, and your ascent on Pico Island will leave you with beautiful memories for life.

 

Overnight Stay

Spending the night on Pico is a magical experience that allows you to witness the sunrise from the summit, but it requires special care to ensure comfort and safety.

Choosing the Location & Environmental and Safety Precautions

• The overnight stay is usually done in the crater, among the rocks, in areas somewhat sheltered from the wind, on sandy ground where it is possible to pitch a tent.
•  It is essential to respect protected areas to avoid damaging the mountain’s sensitive environment.
• Even at the top of a hard-to-reach mountain, vigilance during the night is necessary. Although some people hike and camp alone, it is always advisable to travel with company.
• Prepare light and nutritious meals that can be eaten cold, as conditions do not allow for easy cooking and there may be restrictions on using stoves (check before your trip).
• Take all your waste with you to avoid environmental impact.
• During the night, stay alert to weather conditions, as the climate can change rapidly.
• If you plan to sleep out in the open but storms or strong winds arise, be prepared to pitch your tent quickly.

The Night and the Sunrise

If the weather allows, take the opportunity to admire the starry sky, which is especially clear due to the low light pollution.

The reward for sleeping at one of the highest altitudes in the Atlantic is waking up to a natural spectacle: the sunrise above the clouds, the vastness of the landscape, and the impressive silence of the surroundings. Although you may feel very tired and tempted to sleep longer, make sure to get up early to watch the sunrise because, at these altitudes, the sun greets us with its light much earlier than usual. While visibility and weather conditions may vary, you can expect to wake up around 5 a.m. to not miss this incredible display of light and color.

The Descent

Descending Pico may seem easier, but it is actually quite the opposite. It requires great attention to avoid accidents and to manage the fatigue accumulated during the ascent, so it can take even longer than going up.

Ground Conditions

• The terrain is often uneven, with loose stones and volcanic ash areas that can be very slippery, especially if wet or rainy.
•  Footwear must have excellent grip, and you should descend with controlled steps to avoid slips and sprains.
• Use trekking poles to improve stability, reduce impact on your knees, and help maintain balance.

Managing Fatigue

•  Accumulated tiredness can reduce concentration and balance, increasing the risk of falls.
• Take regular breaks to catch your breath and recover muscle strength.
• Stay well hydrated and maintain your nutrition even during the descent to avoid weakness.
• If you experience severe pain, dizziness, or nausea, stop immediately and assess your condition.
• If injured and unable to continue descending, remember you can contact Casa da Montanha via the GPS device provided to ask for help.

Visibility and Safety

• Continue following the posts and marked trail to avoid getting lost.
• If visibility is low due to fog or bad weather, proceed with caution or consider pausing your descent and waiting for better conditions.
• If you need assistance at the end of the trail, the Casa da Montanha staff will be ready to help you.

What More to Explore on the Island

Pico Island is much more than its impressive volcanic mountain. There is a variety of authentic experiences and unique landscapes to discover during your stay.

Volcanic Landscapes and Nature

• Explore Pico’s vineyards, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with their unique volcanic stone walls that protect the vines from wind and sea salt.
• Visit the natural lava pools scattered along the coast, perfect for a refreshing swim in the Atlantic.
• Hike lesser-known trails that cross forests, pastures, and volcanic formations, offering different perspectives of the island.

Whale and Dolphin Watching

• The region is famous for whale and dolphin watching, with several operators offering boat tours to see these magnificent animals in their natural habitat.

Culture and History

• Visit the Museu dos Baleeiros (Whalers’ Museum) to learn about the island’s important whaling history.
• Explore the small villages with their beautiful traditional architecture and historic churches.

Local Gastronomy

• Taste typical products such as Pico cheese, wine produced in the island’s vineyards, and traditional fresh fish dishes.
• There are several restaurants and local taverns where you can experience authentic Azorean cuisine.

Caves

• Visit the Complexo Vulcânico das Grutas do Pico (Pico Volcanic Cave Complex). Pico Island has the largest number of volcanic caves in the archipelago, formed by several interconnected lava tubes stretching for kilometers. Among the most famous caves is Gruta das Torres, the largest lava tube in Portugal, measuring over 5 km long.

 

Sustainability and Ecotourism

Pico Island is an ideal destination for nature lovers and those who value sustainability. Here, you can experience authentic living while respecting the environment and local traditions.

One of the most genuine ways to experience the island is by staying in the typical basalt stone houses, built with natural materials and traditional techniques. These houses, often carefully restored with respect for the original architecture, offer modern comfort within rustic and eco-friendly settings. Moreover, many are located in UNESCO-listed vineyard areas, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the local culture.

Examples of sustainable accommodations on Pico include Homepico Casas de Campo, which offers several traditional stone houses equipped with renewable energy systems and located in Santa Luzia, São Roque; and Adegas do Pico, a group of stone houses on the island’s north coast in Praínha, where guests can enjoy warm hospitality and the authentic Azorean way of life.

Choosing accommodations like these allows for a closer connection to nature, a lower environmental impact, and a deeper cultural experience.

 

When to Go and Practical Tips

You can ascend Pico all year round, but the best months are from spring to early fall (April to October), when the weather is milder and generally more stable. In winter, temperatures drop significantly and the risk of bad weather increases, making the ascent more dangerous.

Tourism in the Azores has grown considerably in recent years, so it’s highly recommended to book all your activities well in advance, whether flights, car rentals, whale watching tours, or the mountain ascent itself. Planning ahead ensures a smoother, more enjoyable trip.

Even with advance bookings, remember that nature is always unpredictable. Always check the weather forecast on the day of your ascent, as visibility can change quickly.

Pico is a small island with a welcoming community. While many locals speak English, knowing a few words in Portuguese and showing respect for the residents makes a big difference. Azoreans deeply cherish their islands and work hard to keep them preserved and authentic. Help protect this unique place by respecting its nature and traditions.

 

Ascending Pico is more than conquering one of the highest points in the Atlantic. It’s an adventure that stays etched in your memory and heart forever. Between volcanic landscapes, nights under the stars, and the vastness of the sea, Pico offers an intense and authentic experience, perfect for those seeking nature, silence, and wild beauty. When you return home, you’ll carry not only the feeling of accomplishment but also the certainty of having discovered a truly special place.