" Blog da Horta Biológica: Composting
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Cataplasm / Poultice: What Is It? How To Do It? How To Use It?

Cataplasm or Poultice is a paste of medicinal herbs that is applied to the skin to soothe burns, inflammation, irritated skin, or improve blood circulation. It is a natural remedy for external use, and as far back as ancient times the Romans and Greeks used it to treat various ailments.

We are at the peak of spring, a time when there is an abundance of plants, and it is just the right time to bring you another tip for more natural self-care. In this post we will show you how to make a cataplasm/poultice with fresh and dried plants, how to choose the plants and how to apply it to the skin. At the end of the post, also watch our educational video where we show everything, step by step.




What is a Cataplasm/Poultice?

A cataplasm or poultice is a paste made from medicinal herbs macerated and mixed with water and clay. The herbs used can be fresh or dried, and the use of clay, although optional, is well advised because clay, in addition to its skin healing properties, also helps form a consistent paste that becomes easier to apply.



How to Choose the Plants?

You can use a single plant or a mixture of several plants. The plants should be selected according to the problem to be treated. Here are some brief examples of plants that can be used individually or in a combination: 


For relieving muscle pain - Mint, Passion flower, Rosemary, Sage, and Nasturtium

For skin care - Calendula, Lavender, Chamomile, Parsley, and Rose

For menstrual pain relief - Anise and Sage

To bring down fever - Lime, Lemon grass and Laurel


These are just a few suggestions and we remind you that the plants and their active ingredients may have different effects on each person. If you have adverse reactions to any plant, its use should be discontinued. We also remind you that, unfortunately, natural remedies are not a substitute for conventional medicine when it is really needed.


Learn more about medicinal plants and how to prepare and use them in our book: "The 5C's of Aromatic and Medicinal Plants - Cultivate, Care, Collect, Conserve and Consume 30 Plants and Their Properties".


 


How To Do It?


Let's see how to make this medicinal paste with fresh herbs and with dried herbs:


With Fresh Herbs

  1. Choose the plants according to the problem to be treated. There are no right amount. An amount proportional to the size of the area to be treated should be chosen.
  2. In a bowl, macerate the plants. Now, when we say macerate, we mean to start by crushing the plant with a pestle so that it will then more easily release its active ingredients pnto the skin.
  3. Add just a little hot water to help soften the plants and continue macerating.
  4. Optionally, add a little clay* to help form a paste-like consistency. When it forms a homogeneous paste, the cataplasm/poultice is ready to apply.

* To make the cataplasm/poultice in this post and video, we used green clay. If you have very sensitive skin you can use white clay as an alternative.


If there is a good amount of plant left over, you can make bundles and dry them for later use, or you can use them to make smudge sticks.



With Dried Herbs

With dried herbs the process is similar. Only the amounts of water and clay may vary, since the plants are dry.

  1. Choose the plants according to the problem to be treated.
  2. In a bowl, macerate the plants.
  3. Add a little hot water to help soften the plants and continue macerating.
  4. Optionally, add a little clay to help form a paste consistency. When it forms a homogeneous paste, it is ready to apply.

The plant left overs can be placed in the compost pile.



How To Use It?

The cataplasm/poultice can be applied cold or hot, depending on the therapeutic purpose. If it is to relieve muscle pain, we advise applying hot. If it is to soothe skin burns, apply cold.

Apply the paste to the affected area and cover with a gauze, bandage, or cotton cloth to ensure contact with the skin. Some people just apply the paste to the skin without bandaging. However, we recommend using bandages, as they help keep the paste in place, especially if applied to an area where it is liable to run off. 

Leave it on for 10 minutes to 1 hour to enjoy all its emollient, anti-inflammatory, and soothing effects.



What About After Use?

After use, the paste should be placed in the compost pile, as it is all-natural. If the gauze or bandage is 100% natural, it can be placed in the compost pile as well. If a cotton cloth is used, it can be washed and reused.


We hope you enjoyed today's tips, and don't forget to check out our YouTube video to see, in a practical way, how to make these medicinal pastes. If you haven't subscribed to our channel yet, take the opportunity to do so if you don't want to miss a thing!


VIDEO - Cataplasm / Poultice: What Is It? How To Do It? How To Use It?














Aloe vera - From Cultivation to Harvesting

Aloe is a botanical genus that has hundreds of species. In this post we will show you how to grow the Aloe vera species, also known as Aloe barbadensis. Since ancient times, this plant is well known for its benefits, properties, and internal and external uses. 





We don't want to make this post too long so we'll focus on cultivation and will talk about the properties and uses in another post. See our infographic and, at the end of the post, our educational video where we show how to propagate, how to care for the plant, and how to extract and preserve the gel.



In our infographic we show the specifications of this plant, with all the necessary information for the cultivation. 

* This plant was considered to belong to the Liliaceae family but after some recent studies it was reclassified into the Asphodelaceae family.


Aloe Vera en de Blog da Horta Biológica


See in our video detailed information on cultivation, plant care, and gel extraction. If you haven't subscribed yet, take the opportunity to do so if you don't want to miss any of our videos :)

VIDEO: Aloe Vera - From Cultivation To Harvesting





















Nettle Slurry: Benefits and How to Make It

Nettle is an excellent plant, not just for gastronomy and health but also for taking care of other plants on farming and gardening. In this post we talk about the benefits of nettle slurry and, at the end, you find our video about how to make nettle slurry step-by-step.




What Is Nettle Slurry?


Nettle slurry is a concentrated liquid obtained by maceration of this plant. This is a biological process that takes several days and results from the decomposition of organic waste. Nettle slurry benefits both plants and soil, and can be used for both spraying and watering.


Benefits


Nettle slurry is a great ally in organic farming because it is a totally natural product and is very versatile in its use. It is an excellent fertilizer, an effective stimulant for plant growth, it has a protective action against diseases, a repellent effect against pests, and is also a compost activator.


Fertilization


Nettle, among other properties, has a high content of nitrogen, sulfur, iron, phosphorus, silicon, magnesium, potassium, vitamins, and micronutrients. Sometimes, land has these in limited quantities. Because nettle is so rich in properties, it can be used as a liquid fertilizer, enriching the soil and developing plant growth.


Growth


Nettle benefits soil and plant growth in several ways. 

  • It absorbs nitrogen in the soil, supplying it to plants. Nitrogen is the element that plants need the most, being essential for their growth.
  • It facilitates photosynthesis due to the carbon dioxide produced by its bacteria. 
  • The immersion of the seeds in nettle slurry before cultivation, stimulates the growth and resilience of the plants. 


Protection Against Diseases


By providing the soil with the missing nutrients, it stimulates the defense mechanisms of the plants, strengthening them and making them more resistant to diseases, especially those caused by fungi, such as mildew, powdery mildew, and mold.


Pest Repellent


In addition to protecting against diseases, nettle has bactericidal and antiseptic properties. In nettle naturally occurs formic acid, which is produced by the plant for the purpose of self-defense. Due to its abilities as a natural insecticide it is very effective against aphids, mites, the red spider, the white fly, and other unwanted creatures in the garden.

Composting


Because it has a large amount of nitrogen, nettle favours the activity of microorganisms and is an excellent activator of the composting process. The bacteria present in the liquid stimulate fermentation and accelerate the decomposition of organic waste.



How To Make Nettle Slurry?


Required Material


  • 2 Plastic or wood containers with 15L capacity (do not use metal)*
  • Rubber gloves
  • Scissors 
  • 1 Kg of fresh nettles, preferably without flower*
  • 10L of rain or distilled water*
  • Filtering cloth
  • Funnel
  • 2 recipients for storage (water bottles will do)

Warnings


  • Use long-sleeved shirts and thick clothing to avoid skin irritation. 
  • The preparation should be done outdoors due to the smell it will cause in the following days. 

*Do not use metal because nettles are rich in acids such as acetic, butyric, and formic. The reaction between acids and metal can release toxic substances.

*Preferably without flower because although nettles can be harvested practically all year round, before flowering they are less fibrous and decompose more easily. Blossomed nettles will also do the job but they will take loner to decompose and will also result in more fibrous tissues, with less use of the plants. 

*Rain or distilled water because the water that is used to make nettle slurry must not contain chlorine. This is very important, as chlorine kills most of the bacteria responsible for fermentation.


Preparation Method


  1. Cut the nettles and place them in the container, add the water, and stir to mix well.
  2. Cover the container and store it in a sheltered place without direct sunlight. The temperature must be between 18ºC and 25ºC.
  3. Stir every day to release the accumulated gases and to better involve the plants in the water. Cover the container again after stirring. The fermentation process takes time and will depend on the air temperature. Heat accelerates the process, cold delays. Generally, after a week, the fermentation process should already be underway. We know that it is fermenting if there's foam on top of the water.
  4. Keep stirring every day until the foam disappears. This process releases a very strong smell, so it must be done outdoors. When foam disappears, the fermentation process ends and the slurry is ready to be filtered. It may take up to two weeks to complete. This slurry that we made for this post was made during the month of March, in which we had very hot days and very cold days. Our nettle slurry took 18 days to be ready to use.
  5. Use a cloth to filter the slurry. It might be necessary to make more than one filtration. The liquid should be as clean and free of residues as possible, so that it does not go bad and so it has a longer shelf life.
  6. Place the remains of the plant in the compost pile.

Storage


Store the liquid immediately by pouring it, with the help of a funnel, into a container with a lid. Store the container in a cool, dark place. Under these conditions, nettle slurry may last more than a year. It is also very important to label the container in order to remember the date the slurry was made.



How To Use Nettle Slurry?


Nettle slurry is highly concentrated, so it must be diluted. See the percentage dilution in table below.




Many vegetables and other plants appreciate nettle slurry. Examples of this are cabbages, tomatoes cucurbitaceae, fruit trees, roses, and other flowers. 

Onions and legumes will be less likely to enjoy the application of nettle slurry. However, when in doubt, it is always a good idea to experiment in a small part of the garden and see how the plants react to watering and spraying with nettle slurry.

All of this process takes a lot of time and work but it is worth it! There's nothing like knowing that we are taking care of ourselves, our food, and our land in a totally natural way.



What To Put In Your Compost Bin

When it comes the time to cultivate and fertilize plants, it's good to add natural compost. Often some doubts arise about what to compost. You cannot put all food ingredients in your compost bin. This is a process of decomposition of organic matter and, if there are bad odors, it will attract rodent animals.

The decomposition time depends very much on how the food scraps and debris are disposed. If these are shredded, instead of whole, the process will be faster. The temperature and moisture inside the container are also conditioning factors. In any case, you can count on at least 6 months to start using your own compost for gardening.

The more variety you put in the container, the more nutrients the compost will have. You can put green/fresh or dry items. Dry items provide carbon and green/fresh items provide nitrogen to the compost pile. Here's what you can put in your compost bin.




*Make sure that weeds do not contain seeds so you'll not be importing them into your compost pile and subsequently into your garden.
*Sick plants and leaves should be burned.

We hope these tips have been useful to you. Now that you know...Compost it! Don't waste it!



O Que Colocar Na Compostagem | What To Put In Your Compost Bin

Scroll down for English version...

Quando chegar a época de adubar e plantar é bom adicionar composto natural. Muitas vezes surgem dúvidas sobre o que se deve colocar no contentor da compostagem. Não se pode colocar tudo indiscriminadamente, pois este é um processo de decomposição dos alimentos e, se houver maus cheiros, irá atrair animais roedores.

O tempo de decomposição depende muito da forma como os restos são colocados no contentor. Se forem triturados, em vez de colocados inteiros, o processo será mais rápido. A temperatura e a humidade dentro do contentor também são factores condicionantes. De todas as formas, podem contar com pelo menos 6 meses para poderem começar a usar o composto na adubação da horta ou jardim.



Quanto mais variedade colocarem no contentor, mais nutrientes terá o vosso composto. Podem colocar itens secos ou verdes. Os secos dão carbono e os verdes dão nitrogénio ao composto. Para terem uma ideia, eis aqui o que se pode colocar para compostar.



* Certifiquem-se de que as ervas daninhas não contêm sementes para que estas não sejam importadas para a vossa compostagem e posteriormente horta/jardim.
* As plantas e folhas doentes devem ser queimadas.

Esperamos que estas dicas vos tenham sido úteis. E agora toca a compostar e não desperdiçar!




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English Version | What To Put In Your Compost Bin

When it comes the time to cultivate and fertilize plants, it's good to add natural compost. Often some doubts arise about what to compost. You cannot put all food ingredients in your compost bin. This is a process of decomposition of organic matter and, if there are bad odors, it will attract rodent animals.

The decomposition time depends very much on how the food scraps and debris are disposed. If these are shredded, instead of whole, the process will be faster. The temperature and moisture inside the container are also conditioning factors. In any case, you can count on at least 6 months to start using your own compost for gardening.



The more variety you put in the container, the more nutrients the compost will have. You can put green/fresh or dry items. Dry items provide carbon and green/fresh items provide nitrogen to the compost pile. Here's what you can put in your compost bin.




*Make sure that weeds do not contain seeds so you'll not be importing them into your compost pile and subsequently into your garden.
*Sick plants and leaves should be burned.

We hope these tips have been useful to you. Now that you know...Compost it! Don't waste it!


Viveiros e Compostagem | Nurseries and Composting

A agricultura praticada em modo biológico tem muitos cuidados a seguir. Começamos por criar as culturas em viveiros. As sementes são colocadas em couvettes preenchidas com terra para germinação certificada para agricultura biológica. Os tabuleiros são regados todos os dias e protegidos das geadas. Ali crescem até terem tamanho suficiente para serem transplantadas para a horta.


There are many precautions to take when it comes to organic farming. We start by growing seedlings in nurseries. Seeds are placed in starter trays filled with organic germination mix. Trays are protected from frost and watered everyday. Seedlings grow until they are large enough to be transplanted into the garden.


Culturas em viveiro
Seedling trays


Rega
Watering



Antes da transplantação a terra é enriquecida com composto caseiro. Seguindo sempre os princípios do uso de produtos naturais e do respeito pela Natureza, colocamos no contentor da compostagem ervas secas, relva, restos de legumes e fruta, borras de café, galhos de árvores…enfim tudo o que seja matéria orgânica própria para o efeito. Para saber mais, vejam aqui: o que colocar na compostagem.


Prior to transplanting, the soil is enriched with homemade compost. Following the principles of the use of natural products and respect for nature, we put in the compost bin dry herbs, grass, fresh and uncooked vegetables, fruit scraps, coffee grounds, tree branches...any organic matter suitable for this purpose. To learn more see here: what to put in your compost bin.

Compostagem


Se alguém tinha razão era Lavoisier quando afirmava que «Na Natureza nada se perde, nada se cria, tudo se transforma.»


In his wisdom Lavoisier said "In nature nothing is lost, nothing is created, everything is transformed."